North we go with some beach camping, Kalbarri NP revisit and parkrun – Perth to Kalbarri, WA

 Days 69-72

We were on a bit of a mission heading north from Perth, with specific booking dates locking us into Cape Range National Park (more on that later). It meant moving faster than we would normally like, but having travelled parts of this coastline back in 2016 took the edge off any potential FOMO. That said, we still managed to see and do plenty - and camp in some amazing spots along the way.

We took the Indian Ocean Drive out of Perth, soaking up the coastal views before stopping for lunch in Cervantes, then continuing through Jurien Bay to Sandy Cape South. The access track to this camping sport was narrow and left Izzy with a few new ‘pinstripes’ (hopefully temporary), but the reward was worth it - a sheltered campsite tucked behind the dunes. We disturbed a few kangaroos on arrival, then settled in for drinks o’clock atop the dunes, overlooking the beach with not another soul in sight - ah the serenity.

The next day was a shorter drive, passing through Dongara and into Geraldton, where we stopped for lunch at Town Beach. Geraldton’s foreshore is beautifully done - great beach, cafes in the park, and some very memorable Rubik’s Cube toilets. Naturally, the ‘big city’ also meant a trip to Bunnings.

That night we stayed just north of Geraldton at Coronation Beach, a well‑known windsurfing spot - and yes, the wind delivered. We skipped the main campgrounds and found a sandy off‑grid site tucked into the dunes. Tyres down again, and another night of waves crashing and complete solitude.

The following day was a big driving day with a 70km detour off the main highway into Kalbarri National Park before staying in town. It wasn’t our first visit (Stephen’s second, my third), but Kalbarri always delivers something special. This time, we were particularly keen to see the Kalbarri Skywalk (Katu Yaktu) - two cantilevered platforms extending 25m and 17m out over the Murchison Gorge, 100m above the river. Walking out over the steel mesh floor and looking straight down was equal parts amazing and slightly freaky.

We then walked to Nature’s Window, patiently waiting for what felt like 100 very enthusiastic Asian tourists (and their equally enthusiastic tour guide) to finish their photo session before recreating our 2016 shot. Not quite the same angle, but close enough.

A quieter moment was found at the Z‑Bend lookout, where we sat and took in the scale of the gorge. Along the drive, we were also struck by the abundance of coral‑coloured banksias (despite wildflower season being later in the year) - not something we’ve seen before, and absolutely stunning.

In Kalbarri town, the Sports Fishing Classic was in full swing - huge boats everywhere. We secured a caravan park site within walking distance of town, and close to a music festival associated with the event. Not entirely our taste, but thankfully it wrapped up at a reasonable hour. A windy afternoon walk along the foreshore rounded out the day.

Saturday meant parkrun, so I jumped on my bike to participate in Jakes Point parkrun while Stephen opted for a sleep‑in. Unfortunately, I initially rode in completely the wrong direction - turning a planned 3km ride into 6km - and arrived at the start line with just two minutes to spare after a frantic sprint along the Melaleuca Cycle‑Walk Trail. Naturally, the run itself then followed the exact path I’d just ridden.

Another beautiful small coastal parkrun, with more tourists than locals. I managed a top‑10 finish (thanks to numbers rather than speed), and there was a coffee cart at the end - always a good sign. The ride back was far more relaxed, giving me time to actually appreciate the scenery.

A visit to the local bakery capped off the morning - and this is important. Some of you know I’ve been on a quest to find the perfect baked custard tart (not the bright yellow imposters). They are rare. Elusive. But in Kalbarri… I found it. A definitive 10/10.

Where to go from here, I’m not quite sure - but I’m very happy.

Friends, a repair and a useful addition - Perth, WA

Days 65-69

We stopped in Perth for a few days, staying with some very generous friends. We’ve visited Perth many times before, so there was no need to do the touristy things - instead, it was a welcome chance to catch up with our friends and get a few important jobs done.

We rolled into their driveway, planning to stay over the long weekend (and possibly a bit longer). It was wonderful to see Kath, Eric, Emma and Matthew again, and to finally meet their four‑legged family member Barney - who seemed to like us but spent a fair amount of time barking at us just in case. We’d also had a couple of parcels delivered to their place, including my physical driver’s licence, so that long‑running saga is officially over.

For the first time in just over two months, we slept in a house. It felt a little strange, but having extra space, a large bathroom and a washing machine was undeniably nice.

Rather than sightseeing, we filled our days with beach walks, ocean swims, good coffee and brunch, and enjoyed a fun night out at a Fremantle brewery by the water, finished off with gelato. Kath also cooked us a fabulous roast dinner and sent us on our way well‑stocked with fresh produce from her garden.

Stephen took advantage of being somewhere with power, a clean workspace and a ladder to tackle a job he hadn’t had time to do before we left - installing shore power to Izzy. This means that when we’re in a caravan park, we can tap into their power supply rather than relying solely on our own. As with all jobs like this, it took longer than expected and involved working outside in the rain, but it got done - and it worked. Success! We tested it a few days later at a van park and were very happy with the result.

Our final challenge while in Perth was dealing with a damaged windscreen. We’ve travelled plenty of rough dirt roads, but it was a truck on a main bitumen highway that flicked up a rock, leaving us with a large chip and spider cracks. Naturally, this happened at 4.45pm on the Friday before a long weekend.

Huge thanks to Merredin Glazing Service, who had a look just before closing and fitted a temporary patch to see us through. Because of the long weekend, nothing else could be done until Tuesday, but we were able to confirm with our insurer that a full replacement was covered.

First thing Tuesday morning, we headed to Wayne’s Windscreens. Given the roads that still lay ahead, they recommended a full replacement rather than a repair - a sensible call. We fully expected to wait days but were delighted to discover they had a windscreen on hand. Isuzu vehicles are popular in WA, particularly in the mining sector, so they’re well equipped.

While the work was being done, we Ubered to Westfield, saw a movie (Hopper - an animated film that was fine… we didn’t have a lot of choice at 10am on a Tuesday), had lunch, and returned to a brand new windscreen at no cost to us.

With that sorted, we gave Izzy a well-deserved clean inside and out and were free to move on again.

The very next day, we pointed Izzy north and continued the journey. Hooray!

Goldfields, the wheatbelt and a whole lot of historic buildings – Kalgoorlie to Perth via Merredin and York, WA

 Days 61-65

After our ice‑cream‑for‑breakfast treat - and a nod to Norseman, the horse said to have pawed up the gold nugget that sparked the local gold rush - we headed north towards Kalgoorlie.

This marked the resumption of the Nullarbor Links Golf Experience, with two more roadside holes at Widgiemooltha and Kambalda - small towns offering little more than a roadhouse and a lone golf hole. The final two holes, however, were at the Kalgoorlie Golf Course, and the contrast could not have been starker. A full PGA‑standard course with manicured fairways and beautiful trees, it was worlds away from the ‘outback‑style terrain’ Stephen had been navigating so far.

Stephen played the holes, and then the friendly pro‑shop attendant lent us a golf buggy free of charge so we could explore more of the course. It turned out to be so vast that we managed to get lost and had to ask for directions back to the clubhouse. A very different golfing experience - and one Stephen has captured more fully in his own Nullarbor Links post.

We ended up having a surprisingly good stay in Kalgoorlie. There was plenty to see and do, and it was also a chance to tackle some life admin: grocery shopping, picking up our new Kmart $7 click‑and‑collect toaster (a necessary replacement after the previous one blew up), and getting my hair cut and coloured. I was very happy with the result, especially given my long‑standing loyalty to my Sydney hairdresser since 1993.

We also treated ourselves to a Chinese restaurant dinner and a pub lunch at one of Kalgoorlie’s historic hotels. At its peak there were almost 100 pubs in town; today only around a dozen remain, but their architecture is remarkable. Walking through Kalgoorlie is a bittersweet experience - many shops are closed and boarded up - but there are also wonderful community‑led projects, including some wonderful street art and a peaceful garden oasis on the main street dedicated to Saint Barbara, patron saint of miners and firefighters. That one felt particularly special, given Mum’s name was Barbara.

We stayed at the free 72‑hour RV site in Centennial Park (provided by Kalgoorlie Shire) located just outside town. While busier than we usually prefer, it was clean, quiet, and well equipped with toilets and even a coffee van each morning. A 2.5km walk into town made it an ideal base. There was also a walking/bike path nearby - great for an afternoon run.

On the second day of our stay, we uncharacteristically set an alarm to join the Super Pit Tour - and it was absolutely worth it. The scale of the mine is staggering. The Super Pit is Australia’s largest open‑cut gold mine, stretching 4km long, 1.5km wide and over 600 metres deep (the Golden Mile), producing between 450,000 and 900,000 ounces of gold annually. The Goldfields region of Western Australia (WA) became a global hotspot in the 1890s and WA still accounts for around 70% of Australia’s gold production.

We got up close and personal with the haul trucks. These trucks are gigantic, each 14 metres long (that is two Izzys), 7 metres wide and 6 metres high, with six 3.5m tyres on each truck. The trucks each carry 240 tonnes of rock per load and operate around the clock. Looking down from the pit edge these monsters looked like toys coming up and down the roads of the vast pit.

Interestingly, the mine employs mostly residents rather than FIFO workers and maintains a 50/50 gender balance. Our guide even noted that women are often preferred as haul‑truck drivers as they tend to look after the machines better than the blokes.

One of the days was rainy so we soaked up some culture at the Boulder Town Hall, another architectural gem. Our tour was led by the local historian and archivist, whose passion for the building and the region was infectious. The hall has hosted everyone from Dame Nellie Melba to Joan Sutherland, but perhaps most notably AC/DC, who played there in 1975 for $3.20 a ticket.

The standout feature, however, is the magnificent 1908 Goatcher Curtain - believed to be the last working stage curtain of its kind in Australia. Rediscovered entirely by accident, it depicts the Bay of Naples with Mount Vesuvius in the background and has hung in the hall since its creation. It’s genuinely breathtaking.

We also visited the Museum of the Goldfields (free of charge), which houses WA’s largest public display of gold bars and nuggets (all very securely locked away), and wandered through Hammond Park, home to a bizarre miniature Bavarian castle decorated with 40,000 local gemstones - plus peacocks, kangaroos and guinea fowl. Go figure.

On our final morning in Kalgoorlie, we revisited the Super Pit via the free public lookout at the opposite end of the pit, then drove up to Mount Charlotte to get a panoramic view of the town and see the reservoir that marks the end of the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme - the famous Golden Pipeline. Completed in 1903, the 563km pipeline delivers water from Perth to Kalgoorlie. It is still in operation and is on the National Heritage list. I was really fascinated by this especially as we drove parallel to it as we headed west to Perth. I insisted Stephen pull over for a photo. Got to see an enormous tumble weed too so win-win!

 We took two days to travel to Perth, stopping in towns such as Coolgardie, once a booming gold town and now a near ghost town, and Southern Cross, which offered a respectable 6.5/10 custard tart and a lovely park lunch. The landscape gradually shifted from goldfields to wheatbelt.

We overnighted at Merredin (another rock, another wonderful sunset), where there’s a free camp just 500m from the start of the Merredin Peak parkrun - purely coincidental, of course. I ran parkrun on Anzac Day, beginning with a minute’s silence and ending with Anzac biscuits. The town itself was largely closed, but they did have some colourful silo art as we departed.

Our final stop before Perth was the historic town of York, the oldest inland town in WA. We arrived at lunchtime, enjoyed excellent pies, wandered the main street admiring the buildings, and crossed our third suspension bridge of the trip over the Avon River.

Reaching the outskirts of Perth felt a little weird - traffic lights and highways after weeks away from major cities. A reminder that we aren’t really city travellers but will enjoy some downtime with friends here.