Days 69-72
We were on a
bit of a mission heading north from Perth, with specific booking dates locking
us into Cape Range National Park (more on that later). It meant moving faster
than we would normally like, but having travelled parts of this coastline back
in 2016 took the edge off any potential FOMO. That said, we still managed to
see and do plenty - and camp in some amazing spots along the way.
We took the Indian
Ocean Drive out of Perth, soaking up the coastal views before stopping for
lunch in Cervantes, then continuing through Jurien Bay to Sandy
Cape South. The access track to this camping sport was narrow and left Izzy
with a few new ‘pinstripes’ (hopefully temporary), but the reward was worth it -
a sheltered campsite tucked behind the dunes. We disturbed a few kangaroos on
arrival, then settled in for drinks o’clock atop the dunes, overlooking the
beach with not another soul in sight - ah the serenity.
The next day
was a shorter drive, passing through Dongara and into Geraldton,
where we stopped for lunch at Town Beach. Geraldton’s foreshore is beautifully
done - great beach, cafes in the park, and some very memorable Rubik’s Cube
toilets. Naturally, the ‘big city’ also meant a trip to Bunnings.
That night we
stayed just north of Geraldton at Coronation Beach, a well‑known windsurfing
spot - and yes, the wind delivered. We skipped the main campgrounds and found a
sandy off‑grid site tucked into the dunes. Tyres down again, and another night
of waves crashing and complete solitude.
The following
day was a big driving day with a 70km detour off the main highway into Kalbarri
National Park before staying in town. It wasn’t our first visit (Stephen’s
second, my third), but Kalbarri always delivers something special. This time,
we were particularly keen to see the Kalbarri Skywalk (Katu Yaktu) - two
cantilevered platforms extending 25m and 17m out over the Murchison Gorge, 100m
above the river. Walking out over the steel mesh floor and looking straight
down was equal parts amazing and slightly freaky.
We then
walked to Nature’s Window, patiently waiting for what felt like 100 very
enthusiastic Asian tourists (and their equally enthusiastic tour guide) to
finish their photo session before recreating our 2016 shot. Not quite the same
angle, but close enough.
A quieter
moment was found at the Z‑Bend lookout, where we sat and took in the scale of
the gorge. Along the drive, we were also struck by the abundance of coral‑coloured
banksias (despite wildflower season being later in the year) - not something we’ve
seen before, and absolutely stunning.
In Kalbarri
town, the Sports Fishing Classic was in full swing - huge boats everywhere. We
secured a caravan park site within walking distance of town, and close to a
music festival associated with the event. Not entirely our taste, but
thankfully it wrapped up at a reasonable hour. A windy afternoon walk along the
foreshore rounded out the day.
Saturday
meant parkrun, so I jumped on my bike to participate in Jakes Point parkrun while
Stephen opted for a sleep‑in. Unfortunately, I initially rode in completely the
wrong direction - turning a planned 3km ride into 6km - and arrived at the
start line with just two minutes to spare after a frantic sprint along the Melaleuca
Cycle‑Walk Trail. Naturally, the run itself then followed the exact path
I’d just ridden.
Another
beautiful small coastal parkrun, with more tourists than locals. I managed a
top‑10 finish (thanks to numbers rather than speed), and there was a coffee
cart at the end - always a good sign. The ride back was far more relaxed,
giving me time to actually appreciate the scenery.
A visit to the local bakery capped off the morning - and this is important. Some of you know I’ve been on a quest to find the perfect baked custard tart (not the bright yellow imposters). They are rare. Elusive. But in Kalbarri… I found it. A definitive 10/10.
Where to go
from here, I’m not quite sure - but I’m very happy.
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