Wildlife, Wild Coasts & Wonderful Surprises - Kangaroo Island, SA Part 1

Days 13-17

Kangaroo Island has been on my bucket list for some time. I’d been tantalised by promises of dramatic seascapes, iconic Australian animals in the wild, wonderful gastronomic indulgences and beautiful natural settings.

Getting a vehicle as long and tall as Izzy onto the Kangaroo Island ferry required a bit of planning, so we were grateful to secure a spot on the 7pm Wednesday crossing, waiting less than a week (not a hardship — the Fleurieu Peninsula kept us well entertained). There wasn’t a great deal of WHS happening at the terminal — cars, trucks, people and dogs all competing for position with little direction — but Stephen calmly reversed Izzy into the correct lane and we were soon underway. The 45‑minute crossing was capped off with a gorgeous sunset.

We’re always careful to avoid driving at dusk, but this time there was no choice. The short trip to our first campsite in Lashmar Conservation Park was intense — kangaroos, wallabies, bandicoots and a whole assortment of native animals were out and about. We crawled along, hyper‑alert, and made it safely. Our reward was an incredible full moon shining over the ocean as we set up camp.

The next morning began with pancakes and an ocean view of Antechamber Bay, followed by a beach walk (hoping to spot Hooded Plovers) and a peek at the peaceful Chapman River, before heading off to Cape Willoughby Lighthouse. It’s hard to imagine the isolation faced by lighthouse keepers in such remote, wild locations. While the day was calm and sunny, the crashing waves and endless road made it easy to picture how unforgiving this place must be in rough weather.

From there we left the Dudley Peninsula and headed west to American River, a sleepy little hamlet that turned out to be a real highlight. Our campsite sat right on the western shore of Eastern Cove, complete with swans, pelicans and ducks drifting past. We unhitched the bikes and explored the foreshore along the Independence walking and cycling track, stopping at Pete’s van for a chocolate milkshake and a decadent cookie.

We chose American River for one very specific reason: Thursday night Thai. On Vicki’s recommendation (from Crabtree Farm), we joined the locals at Tony’s shed - tables, a food truck, a bar and live music - where Tony and his Thai wife cook up an incredible feast once a week. It lived up to the hype. Great food, a few cocktails, and a fabulous community vibe.

Sticking with the food theme, the next day included a relaxing paddle on Pelican Lagoon, followed by local KI oysters and king crab tostadas, paired with a beer and a glass of local False Cape pinot gris. Life is tough.

That afternoon we moved on to Duck Lagoon, chosen partly for its reputation as a koala hotspot and partly because it was only a 15‑minute drive from Kingscote parkrun. Within minutes of arriving, we spotted a koala up a tree just metres from our campsite. A short walk later, we saw another one walking (yes, actually walking!) down to the lagoon for a drink. We circled the lagoon, snacked on fresh figs from a huge tree, and on our return found the koala still drinking. It allowed me to get remarkably close (while being respectful), resulting in some very special photos. We were absolutely chuffed.

parkrun morning (the day formerly known as Saturday) started with a beautiful coastal 5km. Afterwards we refilled water tanks, admired the Kingscote silo and fence art, and continued on. The silo artwork, completed in 2022 by artist Cam Scale, depicts the Glossy Black Cockatoo - affectionately known as “The Glossy” - and the unique Kangaroo Island subspecies of the Western Grey Kangaroo.

Next stop: Stokes Bay. The beach here is hidden from view until you walk through a narrow rock crevice, which then opens onto a stunning stretch of sand dotted with rock pools. I happily wallowed; Stephen did not. As a bonus, we were treated to a pod of around 15 dolphins playing in the surf.

Our final stop for the night was on the opposite side of the island at Vivonne Bay. The roads were good, the scenery spectacular, and the grass trees — Yaccas — unlike anything we’d seen before.

A lay day followed in Vivonne Bay. It was overcast, so not ideal swimming weather, but we hopped back on the bikes and rode to the jetty and then to the general store to sample the famous whiting burgers — a big thumbs‑up from both of us.

We also made new friends with our camping neighbours, Sean and Karen from Tahmoor, spending a few hours drinking local wine, eating cheese, and solving the world’s problems — as you do.

More Kangaroo Island adventures to come…