Squeaky sand, turquoise water, rock climbs, good company...and chickens - Esperance and beyond, WA

 Days 55-58

Beware - this post has an inordinate number of photos.

It was a gorgeous morning for a run - made even more special by the path I took along a causeway crossing the middle of the salt lake we’d camped near the night before. The early light made the salt glisten, and it felt like a fitting way to start the day.

The final four holes of the Nullarbor Links golf experience would have to wait. Instead, we turned left at Norseman and headed south to Esperance - a place that’s been on my bucket list forever.

The drive was straightforward and eased us into the next phase of the trip. We started a new audiobook - Memory Man by David Baldacci - having finished Mr Mercedes by Stephen King while crossing the Nullarbor, and before that Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. Listening to audiobooks together has become a favourite thing of the journey, especially being able to pause the narrative and chat about the plot, the characters, and our reactions along the way.

With school holidays still in full swing, Esperance was busy and we weren’t able to secure a campsite in Cape Le Grand National Park - no great surprise, given how sought‑after it is. Instead, we booked into the waterfront caravan park in town, which turned out to be a great base.

An unexpected bonus was discovering - only the day before we arrived via social media - that my friend Alex and her family from Sydney were also in Esperance at the same time. In an unlikely twist, they weren’t just in the same caravan park, but had a site only two spots up from us. Such a joyful surprise, and a lovely chance to spend time together in such a beautiful part of the world.

Most of our time was spent exploring Cape Le Grand National Park, and it more than lived up to the hype. We visited Le Grand Beach, Hellfire Bay, Little Hellfire Bay, Rossiter Bay, Thistle Cove, Whistling Rock, and then the pièce de résistance - Lucky Bay. Truly one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen: blindingly white sand, crystal‑clear water, and that impossibly vibrant turquoise that almost looks fake. The sand at Lucky Bay is so unbelievably fine that it actually squeaks beneath your feet, one of those small details that makes the place even more memorable.

 

One morning we tackled the hike up Frenchman Peak (Mandooboornup), named for its resemblance to a French military cap. The climb was steep and challenging, and the wind didn’t make it any easier, but the 360‑degree views from the top - across sand dunes, coastline, and the Recherche Archipelago - were absolutely worth it (Stephen may not entirely agree). We were impressed by the large, cavernous opening near the summit and slightly unnerved by the complete lack of barriers once at the top.

During our time in town, we had a fun night at Lucky Bay Brewery with Alex and her family, and enjoyed the Esperance foreshore via parkrun, which passes many of the town’s icons including the Whale Tail sculpture and the jetty. And there are few things better than a parkrun that finishes with a swim and a coffee.

Eventually it was time to move on. We left Esperance heading west along the Great Ocean Drive - the weather was a bit wild, but the rugged coastline was still spectacular from the comfort and protection of Izzy.

At Ravensthorpe, we turned north after stopping at the wonderfully old‑fashioned lolly shop (yes, it was open and we bought red frogs and caramel buds) and admiring the town’s silo art on the outskirts of town.

Our next destination was Hyden, but we stopped for the night at Varley, staying at one of the most delightfully bizarre free camps we’ve encountered - The Chicken Ranch. Used by locals as a community gathering place, it’s also open to travellers like us and is immaculately maintained. Toilets, a cold shower, camp kitchen, BBQs, art and mosaics… and a rabbit cemetery (as you do). We were very happy to leave the requested small donation for such a unique and welcoming spot.