Amaze! Amaze! Amaze! - Lincoln National Park, SA

 Days 39-43

Our first stop this morning was the Port Lincoln Tourist Information Centre, where we collected the key for our campsite in the Memory Cove Conservation Area within Lincoln National Park. As a conservation area, access is strictly limited - only 15 vehicles are permitted each day, and just five are allowed to camp overnight. We were incredibly fortunate to secure one of those coveted spots.

Lincoln National Park (currently free to enter - South Australia has temporarily waived park entry fees to encourage visitors) is only a short drive from Port Lincoln, yet it feels like a world away. From the locked gate to Memory Cove is just 30km, but it’s 4WD‑only and slow going, taking us around an hour and a half. It didn’t matter in the slightest. The drive itself was spectacular — changing landscapes, incredible views, and even a brief pause for a caterpillar train crossing the track.

At the end of it all, we arrived in paradise.

Memory Cove is a sheltered, sun‑drenched crescent of sand with crystal‑clear water and an immediate sense of calm. Our campsite sat among native trees with million‑dollar views and our own private track down to the beach. Simply stunning.

We settled in quickly and made the most of every moment — swimming, watching dolphins play just offshore, enjoying sunrise coffees and sunset drinks on the sand, wandering along the coast, and one afternoon being treated to a perfect double rainbow arching over the bay. It felt like the kind of place where time slows without you noticing.

Stephen was particularly happy, heading out on several very successful fishing expeditions straight from the beach. He caught three Australian salmon - which he insists was skill; I maintain it was more a case of fish abundance than technique. Either way, we enjoyed them over three meals: barbequed, in a salad, and in a red curry. Delicious every time.

Almost as soon as we arrived, we knew we wanted to stay longer than our two booked nights. Sadly, despite checking daily for cancellations, Memory Cove was fully booked. Reluctantly, we packed up and moved on. The drive out was just as spectacular, and we had the added bonus of seeing loads of emus.

Our next stop was Engine Point, on the opposite side of the park. Still waterfront, still beautiful, and with distant evening views back toward the lights of Port Lincoln. When we arrived, our allocated site was set back from the water and squeezed between a group of three vans clearly travelling together - not ideal, but it was the only spot available.

As we were setting up, one of the women from the group came over to chat. She asked if we’d like to use their site instead - a prime waterfront spot slightly away from the others. Their van had caught fire a few nights earlier and they needed to leave to take it into Port Lincoln for assessment. Thankfully no one was hurt, and we were incredibly grateful for their generosity.

With our unexpected upgrade, we settled in again - watching the tide ebb and flow and the constant stream of birdlife feeding along the shoreline. The wind made itself known (as it tends to do in South Australia), so there were periods of retreating indoors, but overall it was another peaceful stay. On our second day we walked to nearby September Beach for a swim, enjoying the sandy shoreline before heading back.

After four nights in Lincoln National Park, we emerged feeling quietly changed - rested, grateful, and very aware that we had experienced something special.

We returned to Port Lincoln Tourist Park to prepare for parkrun on Easter Saturday morning, already knowing that Memory Cove had set a very high bar.